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The 2018 Challenger SRT Demon and the 2023 Demon 170 were limited-production drag cars, so most change hands through collector and enthusiast auctions. A small number of damaged or recovered cars appear on salvage auctions, and those need extra scrutiny.
We do not publish typical prices here because auction results vary widely by year, mileage, title and condition. Check recent sold results on each site before you bid.
Where to find them at auction
- Bring a Trailer: Curated enthusiast auctions with long comment threads; good for low-mile and collector-grade cars.
- Cars & Bids: Enthusiast auctions for modern (1980s and newer) cars; Hellcats, Demons and Scat Packs appear often.
- Mecum Auctions: Live collector-car auctions with online bidding; frequent modern Mopar performance cars.
- Barrett-Jackson: Live collector-car auctions; special-edition Demons and Hellcats show up here.
- eBay Motors: Private and dealer listings, auction or Buy It Now; strong for clean-title muscle cars and work trucks.
- Copart: Largest US salvage and clean-title online auction; many lots need a dealer license or a registered broker.
- IAA (IAAI): Insurance and fleet vehicles, salvage and clean titles; check each lot's buyer eligibility.
- AutoBidMaster: Registered Copart broker that lets the public bid on many lots without a dealer license (broker fees apply).
Inspection and VIN tips
- Verify the VIN with a history report and compare it to the door-jamb sticker and window sticker. Demons are worth faking, so confirm rather than trust badges.
- Ask what original items are included. Collectors expect the original documents and any factory accessories the car came with; missing items lower value.
- Mileage and originality matter more than on almost any other modern car. Ask for photos of the odometer, tires and any aftermarket parts.
- On salvage listings, check for theft recovery and missing parts; replacement parts for limited models can be slow and expensive to source.
- Budget for enclosed transport. Most owners and buyers of collector-grade Demons do not use open carriers.
History and recall checks:
- AutoCheck: Experian vehicle history report with auction-sale records.
- VinAudit: Low-cost NMVTIS-based vehicle history report.
- EpicVIN: Vehicle history report that often includes past auction photos.
- NICB VINCheck (free): Free check for theft and insurance total-loss records.
- NMVTIS (vehiclehistory.gov): The federal title-history system; lists approved report providers.
- NHTSA recall lookup (free): Check open safety recalls by VIN.
Buyer fees: budget before you bid
Your winning bid is not your price. Expect some mix of a buyer fee (often tiered by sale price), an internet or virtual-bid fee, a gate or loading fee, a document or title fee, broker fees if you use one, storage fees if you pick up late, plus sales tax, registration and transport. Fees change, so read the current schedule before every bid: Copart member fees · IAA buyer fees. Government sites like GovDeals add a buyer's premium that varies by seller and is shown on each listing.
Title types: salvage vs. clean
- Clean: no recorded total loss. Easiest to register, insure, finance and resell.
- Salvage / certificate of destruction: an insurer declared it a total loss. In most states it cannot be driven or registered until repaired and inspected; a certificate of destruction usually means parts only.
- Rebuilt / reconstructed: a salvage vehicle that passed a state inspection. Drivable, but resale value and insurance options are lower.
- Bill of sale only / non-repairable: be very careful; registration may be difficult or impossible in your state.
Rules differ by state. Check your DMV before bidding on anything that is not clean-title. In South Carolina, start with the SCDMV.
Getting it home
Auction yards charge storage after a short free window, so book transport the day you win. Get quotes from a broker such as Montway or post the job on uShip, confirm the carrier's insurance, and tell them whether the vehicle runs (non-runners cost more and need a winch). Box trucks and dually pickups are oversize for many car carriers, so say so up front.
- Montway Auto Transport: Door-to-door car shipping quotes.
- uShip: Marketplace where carriers bid to haul your vehicle, including box trucks.
Paying for it
Most auctions require payment within a few business days, usually by wire or certified funds, and many do not accept financing. Arrange money before you bid.
- Auto Credit Express: Auto-loan matching, including for buyers with credit challenges (most auctions want cash or wire, so line up funds first).
How to buy, step by step
- Set a maximum all-in price: bid + fees + tax + transport + repairs.
- Register on the auction site (or a broker for dealer-only lots) and read its terms, payment deadlines and pickup rules.
- Run the VIN through a history report and recall lookup before bidding.
- Inspect in person or hire an inspector if the yard allows it; otherwise assume the worst from photos.
- Bid with your maximum and walk away if it goes past it.
- Pay on time, book transport immediately and handle title and registration with your DMV.
Frequently asked questions
- Where do most Demons sell?
- Mostly on enthusiast and collector auctions such as Bring a Trailer, Cars & Bids, Mecum and Barrett-Jackson, plus some on eBay Motors.
- Is a salvage-title Demon a good deal?
- It can be cheaper, but salvage history sharply reduces collector value and insurance options. Only bid if you know the repair cost and your state's rebuilt-title process.
More vehicle auction guides
- Dodge Hellcat (Challenger & Charger)
- 392 HEMI: Scat Pack, SRT 392 & Jeep 392
- Chevy Silverado 2500HD/3500HD work trucks
- Used box trucks at auction
Not financial advice. Auction vehicles are sold as-is and you can lose money. FlipTheBid is not affiliated with Stellantis, Dodge, Jeep, GM or Chevrolet.